Manual Flash Starblitz 320 BTZO
Posted By admin On 17.01.20Michael, thanks for correcting me. It seems a long way since I used these devices and numbers are not anymore familiar to me. Now with your help I remember that dTTL were SB28DX, SB50DX and SB80DX compatible both with film and early digital Nikon bodies. All previous flashes SBxx without DX were simply film TTL and SB600 and SB800 are the only Nikon flashes doing TTL, dTTL and iTTL.George, these old flashes are not anymore proper to be used on camera, especially on these top notches like yours.
The only way some people still use them is off camera, multiple flashes in studio or location, controlled fully manual. I'd recommend at least a SB700 if not SB900/910 for D800. Hard to say, Dave. My own experience with using A flash mode (instead of D-TTL or I-TTL) is that flash output tends to be very nearly right, but almost never exactly right.
I suspect this is because it was designed to be used with film, and negative film tends to be a lot more forgiving of overexposure. Or it might be because as we've seen recently, not every single sensor reads the exact same amount of light at the same ISO settings. And we've known for years that not every meter is calibrated to exactly 18% grey.Either way, I should think that since the D800 has better tonal range and exposure latitude than previous DSLRs, 'close enough' will probably be close enough.
I'd buy an SB-700 anyway if it's in the budget, since 'very accurate' is better still, but I probably wouldn't sweat it if it isn't. Non-TTL Auto is pretty simple as it will just base the exposure on how much light returns to the camera.
So in a lot of situations it will work just fine and it can be easily compensated when needed.I don't have access to a SB-26 but I have to the older SB-24. On my D600 there is no communication between the camera and the flash whatsoever. I suspect it will be the same with SB-26 and D800.That means that you have to set the zoom, iso, aperture on the flash and then the iso and the aperture on the camera separately. You have to limit your shutter speed to max flash sync speed, 1/250s on the D800, though this is not done automatically which is a bit strange. This means that aperture priority on the camera can't be recommended when it's possible that the shutter speed goes higher than 1/250s.You are also limited to ISO 1600, f/2.8 or equivalent exposure at medium distance. If you shoot too high iso and/or large apertures or something up close you will go over the minimum amount of light the sensor on the flash can sense and get overexposure.
There is a table in the flash user's manual that explains the limits. It's slightly different for different models.
If you bounce the flash the distance limits doesn't apply but the minimum light to the sensor does.If you just want to point and shoot press and get a somewhat decently exposed image it's best to get a iTTL capable flash like the Nikon SB600/700/800/900/910. The only thing that's annoying about the older units like SB24 on manual is that you can't ramp the power up and downsay from 1/2 to 1/4 and back, you have to go all around the sequence which I find slows me down sometimes if I'mworking fast.
Usually it's not a big deal if I'm in the same light, say a smaller room I might only want 1/8 power to bounce,but then go to 1/2 in a bigger room, but have to ramp up through and around to go back to the lower setting. So I have tokind of ramp while I'm walking one place to the other. I have TTL flash, but I like manual most of the time. @Zack, yes your point is well recieved, you have to know your personal setup and tweak. I usually don't want strong fillso I might set the flash on f4 Auto but be shooting at f5.6 etc.
But out in bright sun I will use manual, or shoot maybe evenhotter flash like camera 8-1/2, flash f11. Even then it can be barely noticeable if you have very bright harsh light, but I likethe ISO 100 or 125 there.
You just have to test and know your equipment. I've been using that SB24 since about 1990 soI know what it does. Some people buy cameras and flashes every few months. Shiang, you should use aperture priority with negative exposure compensation. Remember that when using flash you are adding two different exposures - the ambient exposure and the flash exposure. The camera doesn't have a clue about how much light the flash will add so the photographer have to account for that.When shooting with the flash as fill during daylight you can set the flash so it provides less to the exposure than the ambient does and then perhaps just 1/3 or 1/2 stop of negative exposure compensation on the camera to make room for the light from the flash.When shooting in low light you dial in perhaps 2 stop negative exposure compensation.
Manual Flash Starblitz 320 Btzo Review
That will stop the background from going dark and the rest of the exposure is provided by the flash in auto. Basically the flash exposure is the major component.When the flash is in auto you can control the exposure by setting the iso and aperture different on the flash compared to what the camera is set to. Hi,If I had to say anything about newer flashes such as the SB-700, 800, 900 or 910 is that while they are great for modern Nikon DSLRs, their price doesn't make you want to rush out and buy too many.I have three SB-20s (picked up for £20-£25 each on a popular online auction site) and am hoping to pick up an SB-23 for less than that. While they don't get any use on-camera, they can be reliably triggered remotely using a wireless set-up in manual mode. And for the price of 1 newer flash, you can have several old ones. They last for years - I still have a 'Starblitz 16M manual slave flash' that I bought in 1982.
Just buy shares in a battery company.andyc. I use slightly older SB-25s with a D700 and D800 frequently.
As off-camera 'strobist' flashes they're superb, with power control down to 1/64th in 1/3rd stop decrements. Build-quality feels to be a bit more robust than the current lightweight SB-900 and 910, and the SB-25 or 26 has just as much light output.Fitted on camera, the Auto Aperture mode works just as well as i-TTL in most circumstances, giving extremely consistent exposures. It can be used for bounce flash too, as long as the sensor is kept pointing at the subject. However, on-camera direct flash produces some of the worst possible lighting IMO, and should be kept for fill flash only.
That works with AA mode as well. You just have to tell the flash to expose for a higher aperture than the one you're actually using, or use a higher ISO setting on the flash than on the camera.Not usable? I don't think so Dan. While it was not as significant a breakthrough as AF or digital, TTL flash was one of the more important advances in 35mm photography in the early 1980's. For example, once I talked to a used camera dealer in the 1990's, and he told me that the FE2 (1983) worths a lot more than the FE (1978) in the used market because the FE2 has TTL flash. At the time I had one each.Of course it not something you must have, just like some people still focus manually, but having TTL flash is a pretty major plus and Nikon's current i-TTL is excellent on modern DSLRs. A few years ago, I thought the SB-800 was quite ok at $300, but today, the SB-900 and SB-910 are very expensive around $500 and they are also huge.The OP seems to recognize the importance of TTL flash, and since he can afford a $3000 D800, hopefully an SB-700 is within his price range.BTW, as I mentioned before, Nikon's D-TTL flashes have the DX suffix in the model number, such as the SB-28DX and SB-80DX.
The i-TTL flashes have three-digit model numbers such as the SB-R200, SB-400, etc. Those flashes with two-digit model numbers and without the DX suffix are for film TTL flash, such as the SB-24, SB-26, and SB-28. The SB-600 and SB-800 are compatible with all three modes. Jan 23, 2013; 06:35 a.m.' I use slightly older SB-25s with a D700 and D800 frequently. As off-camera 'strobist' flashes they're superb, with power control down to 1/64th in 1/3rd stop decrements. Build-quality feels to be a bit more robust than the current lightweight SB-900 and 910, and the SB-25 or 26 has just as much light output.'
, Jan 23, 2013; 08:34 a.m.' .Nikon's D-TTL flashes. I-TTL flashes. Film-TTL flash.' '.The SB-600 and SB-800 are compatible with all three modes.'
Manual Flash Starblitz 320 Btzop
Not sure if the members on this thread are still active. I just joined, but would greatly appreciate Photo.net user feedback on this topic.I just acquired some (fairly good) equipment for studio/portrait photography: 5-umbrellas/2-softboxes/4-light stands/ Gary Fong whale-tail diffusers.
It included 2 SB-28s (w/SU hotshoe mounts, plus 2 4-channel wireless). I have limited experience setting up studio photography, but I like the portability of this set for my intentions. I currently use a SB-800 on my D-800 camera.Questions:. Can I use my SB-800 to trigger the SB28's flashes off-camera?. Ideally, would it be possible to remotely trigger all three flashes off-camera?. If possible, how would you use this system to sync all three flashes for a small studio set-up?Thanks in advance,DJ.
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